Day 9 – Sweet Spot

Happy Valentine’s Day from Key West!

I wanted to start out by saying that this blog does have some links in it so the underlined places we have been are a quick link to their website if  you want more information or are just curious.  Paul’s day started early with a Scuba tour to Looe Key where the reef has been protected since the early 80’s.  He didn’t get back till 2 so he had a really phenomenal start to the day.  Sightings were trumpet fish, barracuda, reef sharks, lion fish and another monster fish… 300 pound Goliath Grouper.  He had a blast with the 2 dives he did today.  Colors were wonderful, his partner was great and they saw tons of coral.  My day was slower to start, sleeping in and a lovely card and gift on the breakfast table from my honey, waiting to be opened.  After breakfast I took an 8 mile bike ride.  This was mostly to go back to the area where I spilled on my bike the other night, I wanted to take one last look for my sunglasses.  I believe there is a bird somewhere that scooped them up and is styling in my sunglasses.  Paul thinks he saw a bird with sunglasses but it kept running into things because the prescription was not compatible. 🙂  Once we had lunch, we did some maintenance on the RV getting ready for the next leg of our trip.  We took off to Key West in time to see the sunset over Smathers Beach and talked to Jeff who is holding the fort down while we are gone.  We walked along the beach and enjoyed our last evening in the Keys. 

Sunset on Smathers Beach

Off to the grocery store to stock up for the next leg and back home to have a quiet dinner.  Grilled ginger chicken and grilled bourbon peaches, salad and some homemade honey wheat bread.  Dessert was homemade molten lava cakes with vanilla ice cream.  I challenge the other RVers to top that!  Happy Valentine’s day y’all!

Day 8 – Tourist Time

Today started out with a couple calamities… Paul’s scuba trip was cancelled due to the other participants cancelling, lost $50 somewhere along the line and I discovered when I took my spill on the bike, I may have lost my prescription sunglasses!  Well, you just have to roll with it!  Paul rescheduled the diving for tomorrow, didn’t find the money or sunglasses yet but I do have a back up pair.  Good thing I got them on a deal at Walmart!!

We decided to do a few tourist-like things today and go to the Southernmost Point in the Continental US.  If you will note in the picture, it is another beautiful blue skied day in Paradise. 

We then walked a million miles (well half a mile) to the Hemingway House where Ernest Hemingway lived for 9 years and did the majority of his famous writing there.  The tour guide was great, obviously had a passion for the property he worked on and kept us enthralled with his information and humor.  There were several movies filmed at the Hemingway House (James Bond, time to kill) and a new one coming out in July called “Leisure Seeker” in which our tour guide played a tour guide (didn’t see that one coming, eh?) in the film.  He was very knowledgeable and entertaining.  I would recommend it if you are here and have the time.

African Orange Tulip Tree on the Hemmingway property with the light house in the background

Next to the Hemingway House, there was “Six-Toed Cat” Restaurant (Hemingway had six-toed cats on his property – 53 at this writing) and had a delicious lunch outside, watching the people go by.  Two lovely older ladies buzzed by on electric wheelchair scooters, did a u turn on the sidewalk, almost hitting the tree where we were sitting.  Cute ladies, I hope they were not drinking while driving, but I suspect they were!

We moseyed along to the Key West Winery – not Paul’s cup of tea (or wine).  Apparently they don’t use grapes to make their wine and make wine from other fruit so even the ‘dry’ wines were too sweet for him.  I was OK with it so we shared a tasting and brought Mango Mama wine home to make some slushies.  We had some time to kill so we walked to the pier and spotted a 500 pound Goliath Grouper – that ain’t no fish story either… It was mammoth! Walking back to the car, we ran into the little ladies with the wheelchair scooters, trying to turn into a sidewalk dive eatery/bar and running into the walls trying to navigate the doorway – fortunately, they had an ambulatory male friend who seemed able to guide them into the place.

We made it to the sunset cruise and enjoyed the evening watching the sunset over the water.  Apparently there is a phenomenon called the “Green Flash” where, just as the sun is disappearing beyond the horizon, there is a green flash as the water catches the reflection of the setting sun.  It did appear as if the sun was turning green tonight but it was flashless…the captain of the boat said he saw the green sun as well – maybe hoping for a better tip??

Blond Pelican gliding over the water while we were on the boat

Going, going, gone
coming into the channel for final docking

Off to a hidden treasure for dinner – Hogfish Grill on Stock Island, off to the east as you are coming out of Key West.  Someone told Paul about this place and it was another spot WELL off the beaten path.  More like a local bar and grill type place right on the water.  Of course we had to try the Hogfish so I had Hogfish sliders with lime remoulade and Paul had the Hogfish with blackened scallops, both really good.  I had to top the day off with Key Lime Pie, naturally – what else do you eat for dessert in Key West?

Unusual truck outside Hogfish Grill decorated with sea shells and other sea creatures.

Van on Duval street ‘painted’ with sharpies!  incredible detail and if you cant read the sign, it says it took him 65 days, 610 hours and 100 sharpies.

Day 7 – Recovery in Paradise

Although we slept in today, it didn’t really put a dent in the amount of sleep we needed to catch up on… but luckily we didn’t have any place to go today either!  We all participated in a bleary-eyed breakfast and noontime walk around the lake at the campground, looking for critters.  We found some lizards, shell fish that looked like mussels and clams, and found some itty bitty jelly fish in the lake.

and yes, it was an absolutely lovely Paradise day! a bit warmer today – 85 degrees and still breezy, of course

The stroll around the small lake was enough exercise at this point in the day so we visited a bit more with our guests and bid them farewell, back to reality for Jay and Sara, unfortunately!  Grilling an early dinner and then some biking at sunset across the bridge, investigating a small neighborhood community off the main road.  Of course, we found a ‘shortcut’ through the brush and gravel, which I didn’t navigate so well in the dusk of the evening and ended up on my butt.  I will likely be bruised tomorrow but I will make it to see another day in Paradise.  Love to you all!

Teaser for tomorrow, Paul is scuba diving and we have reservations for a sunset cruise 🙂

No miles today except 4.5 biking

Day 6 – Key West

Good day!  We started out the day V-E-R-Y Leisurely for a change.  No place to go, no road to travel, just hanging at the Keys…a wonderful thing!  It is a beautiful morning to have breakfast outside, listen to the birds and enjoy the tropical breeze (and the deep blue sky, and 75 degree weather).   

this woodpecker has become part of our campsite.

It ends up that the friends we visited yesterday on the way through Pompano Beach were able to come down and spend the night with us so we are hanging at the Lazy Lakes Campground today until they arrive.  Traffic was not cooperative with Jay and Sara and their arrival was delayed so we headed out on the bikes to see what we could see.  In this section of the Keys (mile marker 20) the bike path is separated from the road and easy to navigate north.  We biked through the KOA campground, within walking distance of our resort,  then over the bridge to the next Key passing several pelicans ‘fishing’ off the bridge.  As we passed the giant birds roosting on the bridge railing, they were eyeballing us, spreading out their wings as if they were ready to take off if we made any unusual moves toward them.

pelicans looking for lunch about 6 feet from me!

The bike path then crossed the highway and delved into the shady trees and past the Mangrove swamps.  If you have not seen Mangrove, the roots shoot out from the side of the plant in search of a place to start a new growth, creating a network of roots, massively intertwining amongst themselves.  It seemed impossible that any creature would be able to navigate through the maze but as we biked along northward, a small Floridian deer ran across the path and into the maze of Mangrove roots and branches.  I am not sure how it got through but disappeared in an instant.  Biking 8.6 miles is pretty easy when it is flat!  At one point we raced each other and got up to 17 miles an hour, but that lasted all of 5 seconds

.

Our friends arrived and we visited a bit, starting happy hour with some slushies made with Peach cider we purchased at a road side stand in Georgia on the way down.

We all went to Key West for dinner…New Orleans with a bit more family flair. (Update 2.13.17 – I have decided it is like Bourbon street meets the beach) Not to say you can’t get into trouble here, because you sure can, but it was just a little less ‘dark’ here and more popular type music rather than the New Orleans jazz, (which we loved to hear when we were there a few years ago.)  We first stopped at Malory Square where the street performers were celebrating the sunset, which we caught on the way to Key West.

street performers doing stunts on a ladder held steady by 4 audience members… not the best idea i have seen!

Blue Heaven was an out-of-the-way restaurant where we had dinner.  Very eclectic and unique with chickens running around (did I mention it was an outside restaurant?) and live music.  Delicious scallop dinner – really wonderful.  After walking for a bit to get there, we had really worked up our appetite.   As we meandered back toward Duval Street, where all the action was, we did a lot of people-watching and tried to take it all in.  Ending up at Sloppy Joe’s Bar where they had a great live band doing a mix of old tunes and current ones.  If anyone knows the “Salsa Baby” story from when we went to Telluride…. It was like that.

A Late, Late night (or early morning, depending on how you look at it), a good time was had by all.  As the Designated Driver, I got everyone home in one piece.  A short night’s rest brought us to Day 7.

No  miles today unless you count biking 8.6!  Over 13,300 steps, that should give you an idea on how much we walked around Key West!

Day 5 – Keys to Paradise

It was nice waking up on a farm!  Bedner’s knows how to do it right.  As we had breakfast, we watched the kids and families go out to the fields and pick strawberries, tomatoes, cukes and peppers.  The birds were chirping their hearts out too… probably trying to keep those kids away from the bird’s breakfast of fresh produce.  When we went into Bedner’s market, the manager on duty let us know about the wild life preserve directly adjacent to the farm.  We decided to take a bike ride to Arthur R Marshall Loxahatchee National Wildlife Refuge (that’s a mouthful).  We biked about 3 miles through part of the park and saw a parrot in the wild, storks, herons, brown pelican, red shouldered hawk and a couple varieties of ducks.  It was a difficult trail on the bike, flat in elevation but sand (sometimes felt like quicksand) and bumpy…. A good workout right after breakfast.

multicolored Heron about 10 feet from us
white storks among the grasses – somewhere in there
the RV on the left side nestled among the crops

On the way to the keys we drove through Pompano Beach and stopped to see our friend Jay, then stopped in Ft. Lauderdale to see Sara at work.  She showed us around her job site where they outfit yachts and other large water craft with everything from food to linens to play toys for the big boys.  It was a last minute decision to visit but we were driving right by their home.  It was nice to see them, it has been a while and we have known Sara since she was an infant.  Nice to have hugs from our extended family!  On the road again … A slow freight train, traffic and boneheads on the road made the trip past Ft. Lauderdale and Miami a bit tedious.  We did make it to Key Largo to pick up a rental car on our way down to Sugarloaf Key where we are staying till Wednesday.  We got the car about 5 minutes before the place closed but the sales person was quite pleasant and made me feel less stressed about the timing of everything today.

sunset on the keys

Once set up, about 15 minutes, dinner and wine was on the table in another 15…

our first dinner in Paradise

We walked around the camping resort to see what it had to offer in the dark.  There are several beautiful sites right on the peninsula for RVers as well as tenters.  We will let you know what we see in the daylight tomorrow.  Listening to Kaleo radio as I type this, chilling and loving that we are finally in the Keys and able to set up for a few days.

Total trip miles 1566.2 (211 today)

Day 4 – Farm Fresh

We left Red Gate Farm Park this morning and headed for Boyton Beach, Florida.  One stop closer to the Keys, YEAH! I have to say too, that the engine light finally went out this morning so we are good to go.  Paul’s guess must have been right, thank goodness.

It was quite the ‘blustery day’, as Pooh Bear would say.  The RV blows around like a sail on a pirate ship, full mast in a storm… maybe not that bad but it gusted so much it blew the screen on the side window off the track and into my lap!   Good thing the wind was coming from the west because if that had happened to the driver, it would not have been a pretty sight. Interstate 95 in Florida is not as exciting as South Carolina (she said facetiously) but it got the job done.   A word for those of you who drive in traffic and ‘inadvertently’ cut in front of trucks (and in our case, RVs) please reconsider your actions.  Do you really want 9 tons of RV fun up your butt?  This seems to be a habit of southern Florida drivers…not cool guys!

Once we arrived at Bedners Farm Market in Boyton Beach, FL, we were greeted by one of the workers on a Kubota that quickly brought us to the back of the farm lot where we parked for the night, nestled among the rows of crops, somewhat protected from the sounds of the highway.  This is one of the Harvest Host partners we connected with and I would rather be on a farm instead of a campground.  Bedners is one of the few remaining farmer owned and operated Farm Markets in South Florida.  Once we set up the RV (it took all of 3 minutes, gotta love it!) we walked to the front of the farm store and found the manager who made us feel welcome.  The manager let us know that there MIGHT be alligators in the canal next to where we are parked, MIGHT BE???  Walking back to our abode, Paul was strolling next to the canal looking for the gators while I walked about 20 feet from him.  I want to be able to see them coming…. Actually I don’t want to see them at all.

sunset on the farm

We stocked up on some fresh produce and started our evening in Deerfield Beach where we met our nephew and his son for dinner.  Poor Jayden was up way past his bed time but it was really great to see them both and catch up a bit.  After saying good bye to the guys, Paul and I walked along the beach and made some arrangements to see friends as we passed through Pompano Beach tomorrow.  Uber picked us up and took us back to the farm…Literally in the middle of nowhere – the driver probably wondered where the heck we were going as we ducked through the closed gate and walked around to the back of the lot!  Pictures to come tomorrow.

Total trip miles 1356

Day 3 – Little Taste, Big Flavor

Howdy!  We woke up in Charleston, SC at James Island County Park.  We went biking through the park and I have to say it is quite the park, especially for a County Park.  There are lakes, swamp land with loons and other water fowl, elevated cabins with screened in porches looking over the park, campgrounds for tents, RVs and primitive sites, disc golf, climbing walls, challenge courses and a splash zone.  If you are planning on staying in Charleston, I highly recommend this multi-faceted park, the kids will LOVE it.  We biked a leisurely 3.7 miles around the lake and adventure areas of the park and along the way, Paul felt compelled to talk to the loons – enough said!  We got a Little bitty Taste of Charleston today.

Loons on the lake

assiduous trees growing with palm trees

On the road to Savannah – a quick trip compared to the last 2 days.  Only 2.5 hours of road in front of us and our first real fill at the gas station…$136.00 for 67 gallons!  Good thing it is only $2.03 a gallon here :=)  Paul got a little aerobic exercise washing the windows, he can’t reach the top of the windows so he had to keep jumping up to wash and squeegee the windshield and all the side windows.. plum tuckered him out.  We got to the RV park with no problem, checked in and then off to see Savannah via Uber.  I think this is the first time we have used Uber and what a wonderful thing!  The driver, Bob, gave us some tips on Savannah relative to the time we had to spend here and dropped us off at City Market where a hub of restaurants and shops are.  His best advice was to take our time and enjoy the southern slow pace.  We walked to the square where there were fountains and found ourselves in the old city.  We meandered, on Bob’s advice, and spent some time looking at the old architecture.  Steep historic steps led us down to the river front (we found out that the STEPS have their own facebook page – I think it is something like the “Steps of Death”!).  We sat outside Huey’s restaurant and had cocktails while watching the boats on the river. The northerners reading this may not want to see the next sentence… 70 degrees and sunny, breezy day, lovely.  While having cocktails, 2 gentlemen sat next to us, ordered in English, then conversed with each other in a language that sounded like German.  Paul is proud of his German heritage and felt rusty with the language listening to these men.  When we got up to pay the check, Paul started talking to the men and stated that his German was rusty because he could not really understand them.  They had a good laugh and then told Paul they were speaking Dutch!  They were actually men working on the cargo ship that was recently in Philly delivering IKEA crates.

city hall
the top of the historical steps

We then meandered back up the historic steps and had dinner at the Ole Pink House Restaurant.  The oldest building in Savannah with 1600 square feet of dining, eleven dining rooms and complete with sightings of ghosts, particularly in the Tavern located in the basement.  Our server was really knowledgeable about the history of the building and had several encounters herself with ghost Marie, the slave that used to live there, as well as a sighting of a blonde headed girl holding a wooden doll.  As she was talking, I got goose bumps all over.  The dinner was phenomenal,  having Grits with Ham Gravy, Damn good fried chicken and superb mac and cheese.  We completed the meal with a praline basket with ice cream for dessert.  You have to have pralines in Savannah you know!  The Pink House dinner was our Big Flavor for today.

the Ole Pink House Restaurant
Praline Basket – YUM

Back to Red Gate Farm Park for a night cap and stroll around the farm, complete with goats, donkey and horses.  Frogs chirping in the background, Dr. Doolittle –Dimmler had all the animals coming to the gate, at 9:45 pm, looking for a friendly scratch on the neck.

Total trip miles  818

 

Day 2 – I 95

Well this morning we woke up at the winery and were greeted by Milt and Sandy.  Hospitable, welcoming and a wonderful way to start the day, touring the log cabin they live in, looking at vineyards and imagining what they will look like in the spring.   We bought some wine, of course, and were on our way to Charleston.  We got a late start but barreled toward Raleigh/Durham and back on I 95,  An uneventful journey (AKA boring), which is OK for today.  Just after I took the wheel, the lanes narrowed to about 3/4 the original width and, well, we will just say that not all the orange and white cones are still standing!  Paul took over for a while and we found a nice stretch of 95 so I took over and, yes, about a minute later the lanes narrowed again!  At least I had the shoulder and rumble strips to ride on this time.  While I am talking about I 95, can I just tell you that South Carolina is the worst stretch of the road?  It is kind of like riding a horse that is trotting… a little too fast, and you are bouncing up and down at an uncomfortable pace.  Any faster and I would have thought things would start falling off the RV.  Tell the grandkids it made me think of the song “people on the bus go up and down, up and down, up and down, up and down” for about a hundred miles.   After Charleston traffic, we got to the campsite by 7pm and had dinner in the oven shortly afterwards.  Looking forward to some touring tomorrow in Charleston and/or Savannah.  Good night all!

Day One – Hidden Gems

We left at 9:30am and headed to Clover, VA.  It is kind of like herding cats, getting out of the house and tearing Paul away from home.  We are both excited to go but Paul has the need to say good bye to everyone.  We LOVE our neighborhood and, never fear, we will be back!  In the first hundred miles the “service engine soon” light came on, CRAP :(.  We decided it was because the gas cap wasn’t on tight enough… hopefully we were right!  On to I 95 around Baltimore and Washington DC.  The signs on the road were ridiculous and completely information overload with symbols, EZPass exits (tolls?) and roads merging everywhere.  Even  the GPS freaked out and thought we had gotten off the highway – my response was “just keep driving straight, it will catch up to us”.  And it did!  Too many cups of coffee and water and no place to pull over put Paul and I into a sweat, literally.  Then the light bulb went on and we realized the bathroom was in the back!  SCORE!  First Hidden Gem for the day. Getting gas in VA was the Second Hidden Gem – $2.04!  When you are sitting on an 80 gallon tank, every penny counts!  Finally off I 95 and tooling on route 360 toward Clover, VA.  A lovely divided highway which is luckily underused.  NO traffic, YEAH!

The REAL Hidden Gem is Hunting Creek Winery in Clover, VA.  Wonderful and so completely awesome and really, really AMAZING (did I make that clear?)   It is definitely off the beaten path and well worth the trip to see this place. Paul is a very experienced RV driver, going down the winding narrow roads to the Winery.  At one point I wanted to go in the back so I didn’t have to “white-knuckle it” but we made it unscathed.  (I might mention here that Paul took the wheel of our rental car in Ireland, landing in Dublin, sleep deprived, driving on the “wrong” side of the road in the “wrong” side of the car with a left handed stick shift…and we did make it to the hotel).  Any-who, the owners of the winery, Milt and Sandy, welcomed us with open arms and offered us a private wine tasting in their new tasting room.  Barrels of wine fermenting in the same room as the tasting bar and a unique feature wall made with reclaimed wood from Milt’s father’s barn.  So cool.  The wines were mostly dry reds and if you know Paul,  he was in heaven.  I like Petit Verdot and have not seen it anywhere except in California…Hunting Creek makes their own Petit Verdot and let us taste the 2010, which was out of this world.  Milt even took some wines from the barrel and blended their port before our eyes.  It was really flavorful, not syrupy like some ports I have tasted, Just a party in your mouth!  Everything we tasted, we loved.  Milt and Sandy were so wonderful and I am very pleased we got to meet them through the Harvest Hosts website.  This area is also one of the very few “dark skies” where we could see tons of stars and constellations.  It was truly a magical evening… we went back to the RV and put on some Amos Lee and did a little dancing (first time in the RV)  🙂

The cabin on the property that Milt and Sandy live in.
view from our breakfast table – a nice site to wake up to
local art work displayed on site
Saying good bye – we will be back!

411 Miles

How do you pack for a month?

A great checklist helps! We developed this over the many years of camping, each trip forgetting something important and wishing we were more organized.  We felt the need to make this list when one summer camping trip we left the sleeping bags in the spare room and on another trip, left the cooler in the hallway!  We kept going without the sleeping bags but did go back for the cooler!  We are doing a triple check on this one…
And tension bars are my best friend, enabling me to organize my shoes and work boots without taking up valuable floor space.  Tension bars also keep things in place in the cabinets so you don’t get wonked in the head when you open the cabinet and realize everything has shifted in transit!  Sometimes you have to learn by experiencing things first hand 🙂